Quarter, core and peel the apples; cut the quarters into lengthwise thirds to make slices about 1/2-inch wide at the outside edge. Toss in a bowl with the sugar, then with the lemon juice and finally with the melted butter. Let sit 3 or 4 minutes to render juices and absorb flavor; taste and fold in more sugar if needed. (Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425F.)

Tum apples into a baking dish and set in the middle level of the oven, basting every 8 to 10 minutes with accumulated juices. Apples are done when slices are thoroughly tender but hold their shape; they should color lightly and be perfectly delicious--baste with more seasonings if necessary. If juices haven't reduced to a thick syrup, remove with a bulb baster and boil down in a small pan; pour over the apples.

Serve as is or with heavy cream, sour cream, lightly whipped sweetened cream, custard sauce or vanilla ice cream.
Yield: 3 cups or 4 servings